In winter

 With some precipitate some of us hide the car in the shell until the spring - to ride in winter is not only costly but also dangerous, as someone travels all year round, while making every effort to three-year car is not turned into scrap.

Winter car rust from the salt from the roads, which together with the dirt falls on the body. And this mixture is not dry for long. Car wash in the usual way, every few days, perhaps that is for their own reassurance - after all the time from washing to wash the salt do its bleak job. Another thing is if you protect the body from the outside shampoos and polishes, forming a wax or Teflon tape. Crafted of the car wash is very easy - very wet mud flows from the body, and does not need much water, especially if the car is wet. For example, I use shampoo Hot Wax Company Turtle Wax. It has a lot of wax - washed and polishing is not necessary, the composition has on the body.
Returning from a trip, once my car still wet, sprinkling water from a conventional plastic bottle, the lid of which make three holes. After Hot Wax only two liters of water and five minutes of work. One treatment shampoo enough for 5-10 washes. Following to that regime, on the body even after the daily winter operation in the spring you will not find the usual "spiders" rust. Polishing (Color Magic, for example) protect the color is even better, but work with them in a cold unpleasant. By the way, enjoy the winter, automatic washing not advise - from the shameless treatment of the body and the temperature changes color sometimes cracks, and on domestic machines even broken off at the corners.
Many people think that winter to deal with salt water, inevitably get on the floor the car - was hopeless. It is not. Rubber mats keep water-trough, have barely time to "clean out". Spilled liquid on the floor can be neutralized ... old newspapers. I change them under the carpet once a week. A shaggy tapestry on the tunnel body at the feet of passengers screened with plastic wrap.
Another way of water into the cabin - through the glass seals. Need to think about it in advance, temporary heat, putting in a gap between the rubber and body sealing. The cold is hard to do - rubber hardens, and sealing a long freeze, so that water can seep between the seal and neobzhatym flare body.
Closed cavity body rust more in the thaw, when the night temperature is lowered on a metal condensed liquid. But spars sex and especially the lower cross member frame radiator (in front wheel drive models) suffer terribly from the salty mud from the wheels. As the water enters the cavity door even after the rain, seeping between the lens and the covered pile seal. Anticorrosion treatment of cavities in branded stations usually do not give the desired result, if the car is not new - the composition does not impregnate the ionosphere is formed of rust and it gets to the metal. Effectively pouring cavities - Submission anticorrelation directly on the closed partition body panels. After a lengthy "tektilovoy bath" ionosphere is absolutely saturated with rust and the metal will be isolated from the corrosion products. In front wheel drive cars need to carefully handle the cross member body in the front bumper inside. There, at fixing brackets and engine mounts stretch to it welded amplifiers. In factory processing here does not fall anticorrelation and a couple of winters corroded uphold stretch marks to break the weakened metal.
Incidentally, it was more of a winter there are holes in the ground mount hangers to the body. The fact that the working moisture absorbers is usually done based on mineral and hellishly cold thickens, greatly increasing the resistance to movement of stocks. That's why leading several kilometers (temporary shocks do not razogreyutsya from work) suspension like "oak," and a harmless summer pothole on the bitumen in the winter can be another time to get pretty shell out too hasty truckers. And not just on welding work on the body, but also to replace the shock absorber if it will break valves.
To rid yourself of this, I ran the synthetic moisture absorbers, almost gusteyuschey in the cold - oil for automatic transmission ATF (the package must be specified «Full Synthetic», and the price - two to three times the price of mineral oil ATF). Perhaps the characteristics of the shock absorbers are changing, but it seems to me, not for the worse: the cold, they behave perfectly - gently dampen vibrations even at minus 30. Along with a stable viscosity, oil for automatic transmissions is valuable and their antiwear properties - shock absorbers should last longer.
Winter maintenance hellishly accelerated wear silentblocks suspension. In the cold rubber parts lose their elasticity and does not have time to deform the sudden progress of leverage. As a result of silent-block rotated in the hole and wear out. Such an avid rider, as I am, winding over the winter to 40 thousand kilometers, often have to change the silent-blocks, not waiting for spring. Warm seashells for me, alas, is not, therefore, working in the cold, I will definitely heat up silentblocks heat blowtorch so that the rubber has become warm to the touch from the outside, but inside stays cold. In this silent-block is included in the opening like clockwork, but it does not deform under the pressure of the mandrel.
About that, rightly or wrongly used in domestic cars synthetic motor oils, disputes go a long time. In my personal experience, to purchase imported oil at $ 8.12 per liter must grow not only real but also mentally. At one time I bought that cheap, but since then, as to try the "synthetic" grade 5W40, I was excruciatingly painful for lived with a "mineral water" years. Strained sounds starter frosty morning remained in the memories, the engine started up easily, probably in the summer, and wear less. In 2108 the gearbox also pour "synthetics" viscosity 75W90. Effect? Starting the engine at minus 25 ° did not even need to squeeze the grip! And incidentally, I note that in tridtsatigradusnuyu heat transfer switch gently and without sound.
In the occurrence of winter is the time to update the "Antifreeze" the cooling system, especially if the summer ever pour water. For pain, benign domestic product has recently become a rarity - most used by me "antifreeze" does not contain anti-corrosion additives and ryzheli rust after a couple of thousand kilometers. In the end I flush the system and flooded moisture firm BP («British Petroleum) - she has been working for 60 thousand kilometers, but the" rust "and not thinking - the color has not changed.
Of winter accessories, available in the bidding, merit heated seat pads. I bought at one time under the name First - the other was not. Two months later, he ordered a long life, which is not surprising - the heating element here is the common wire, the possibility of breakage is proportional to the landings. Now sell mats on the basis of the additional conductive fibers in the magnitude and domestic - in preference.
Heated side mirrors - also handy thing, but here comes across "bullshit." For example, the Baltic served polzimy - gets inside the housing salty water freely dissolved tonyusenky nichrome wire. Much more reliable mirror electrically plated, insulated with varnish.
And a few more thoughts. In winter, often check the state of the toothed belt camshaft (if applicable). Frost rubber becomes hard and brittle, and if the edges of the teeth appeared cracks, change the belt without delay, otherwise a dozen or two cold starts the engine can cut teeth, turning the camshaft in a frozen oil. Replacing bent valves will fly in a lot of money.
Advance to replace lost elasticity of the cooling hoses. When driving a car army unit moved in the cushions of 20-30 mm - bear a "stone" hose from the old cracked rubber such strain?
And the last. Repairing a car in freezing weather, do not forget that almost did not become brittle plastic parts and tools. Thin tube extending open-end wrench, be very careful and work in thick gloves, to avoid having to look for the nearest travmopunkt.