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Monday, March 21, 2011

Mexico: Acapulco, ah-ya-ya-ya-yay

In the country of the Aztecs and Maya, to meet with cacti, pyramids and two oceans escaped Muscovite Emil Prohorchev. Itinerary: Mexico - Puebla - Veracruz - Oaxaca - Puerto Escondido - Acapulco - Taxco - Mexico City.

Rattletrap and cars
Having received a formality, the minister spent our bank card via a card reader.
- Oh, Rousseau tourists! - Smiled broadly clerk. - You have insufficient funds in the bank card. And we lock at the time of car rental funds - 10% of the cost of the car!
- Yes, the appearance of morale! - We are accustomed to fending off. - But we pay the full insurance for the entire period! What more could you want?
- Uh ... Five thousand dollars, sir, - stared at the ceiling Mexican. - But I can offer you a used rattletrap my brother two times cheaper, no deposit and no insurance. In private, say so. Agreed?
- Gratsias, amigo, but - not in this life!
We go around all the racks at the airport and find a representation of one of European companies, which covers the machine no deposit and with full insurance with no deductible. We got a red Chevrolet Aveo petrol with automatic and air conditioning: 910 dollars for 17 days rent.

Mexican Family is at the gas station


The most populous city ... Knock about two o'clock in the center in a continuous smog, have decided to put the car in the paid parking. By the way, the fare on the subway is only 5 pesos (about 3 rubles), regardless of the distance. The entire center - within walking distance, including Trotsky's last home ...

The next morning dedicated pyramids of Teotihuacan, the benefit to go from Mexico City just 40 minutes on toll highway.

Complex of ancient buildings, among which the Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon, leaves mixed impressions: on the one hand, the scope and grandeur of buildings, on the other - in the air the spirits of many sacrifices.

The plan for further visits Reconcile for a cup of delicious hot chocolate (his birthplace is just Mexico).

 Indian festival of song and dance in honor of May 1


The roads are good and smooth, a lot of toll, but with the obligatory free alternative, usually passing through populated areas. Dressings are common, all with a snack and clean toilets, with a monopoly service serves the state oil company Petromex.

Veracruz - a port city, a young resort, probably of interest only to Mexicans: other foreign tourists, two days was observed. Clean beaches leaves much to be desired, filed neprozharennuyu fish, fresh juice squeezed from the bag ... Of the positives - the picture of sunset.


Our path led through the mountain pass of the Sierra Madre in the Indian state of Oaxaca to the central settlement of the same name. The town is situated at an altitude of 3500 meters above sea level, and if you believe the cards before it was only 350 kilometers. But the guide claimed that the drive should already nine o'clock!

Three-wheeled wonder no title in the mountain village of Sierra Madre Sur

170 km of good paved toll road relaxed. Were replaced by landscapes, rough vegetation made lonely scattered cacti of the most incredible shapes and sizes, already could see a majestic mountain range. Plate with a pointer to Oaxaca promised 182 mile journey. The tank is full, in the village tucked tahitosami fresh and sharp, hot enchiladosami. And then began the fun!
So difficult swirling serpentine mountain we have not seen anywhere in the world: 182 kilometers overcame eight o'clock!
The ups and downs alternated indefinitely, driving constantly changed position on the extreme right way to the left, and so hundreds of times. At around 3000 meters entered the dense layer of clouds - is not seen even the tip of the bonnet! But, having reached all the same to the target, we realized that this is not a pity neither the time nor spent force.
In this region there is no luxury resorts, but you can get acquainted with the colors present in Mexico, because there is the biggest in the country, the share of the Indian population. Every evening in the central square is arranged a colorful market selling crafts, street musicians strumming Indian and Mexican melodies, smell of hot chocolate and mezcal.
 Indian Handicrafts in Oaxaca

Oaxaca - the only place in Mexico, where they cook mezcal. This is a special kind of tequila made from blue agave (cactus species) without the use of modern technology. Hundreds of varieties, many tastes, the small cups in a row, salt, frayed with dried red caterpillars special form, lime on the back of the notch of the thumb, swirling colored Indian dress, a string of good people and the sense of taste ...
In Oaxaca you can give to rest the navigator - no sense from it, because even the local taxi drivers can not find your address nor the second or even third attempt. Here the street is completely incomprehensible arrangement and numbering of houses - then running in circles, in the form of figure eights, the one-sided, three-lane suddenly turning into the counter! In this case, no chaos, all the decorum and dignified.  
The world-famous resort greeted us with the erased gilt former glory ... After the tourists from the United States chose in the late eighties elite Acapulco "batch" of Cancun, where "all inclusive" resort several poistersya. But that's the beauty of it: here lived the American movie star years 1960-1970, the air is literally saturated with legends. There are still a lot of gigs and Mexican Beauties.
 Famous jumpers from 45-meter cliff of La Quebrada in Acapulco

On the road from Acapulco to Mexico City looked into the stunning town of Taxco. The basic salary is bringing the production and sale of silver jewelry. Tasco was a perfect conclusion of travel. Incredible cobbled streets, leaving abruptly up and down a taxi - only the white "bugs" without the right front seat, popularly referred to as "bocho" give a feeling of Fellini's films. Streets are so narrow that two cars at a meeting rent back and forth several times to disperse.

2756 miles on the odometer, Mexico meets the pouring rain and incredible traffic. We rent a car safely at the airport named after Benito Juarez, and understand: we will certainly return to the mysterious lands of the United Mexican States!

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